Bangkok's bicycle infrastructure: Raised cycle track between Lumpini and Benjakiti parks

Riding in the Sukhumvit area of Bangkok is an experience I typically rate on a par with dried fish markets and cut rate tattoo parlors: the air quality is poor, and it is hazardous to my health. However, my friend Katy and I discovered on our Monday night bikesploring expedition that there is a way you can ride near Sukhumvit without actually needing to experience it.

Katy and I actually found the bicycle path while running at Lumpini about a month ago. The funny thing is that I read about this track nearly a year and a half ago but never figured out where it was exactly, leading me to believe it was, like unicorns, mythical. Turns out it was, like unicorns, hiding in a really convenient location waiting to be discovered, and is accessed via the footbridge at the northeast corner of the park. Because it is away from big streets for the most part, it is a surprisingly serene, wide track that leads directly to another park with a cycle path, Benjakitti, and has the merit of being absolutely inaccessible to anything motorized. It is a little awkward because it changes levels often enough that one must dismount and walk the bike up and down stairs at least three times, but despite that, it is an ideal cycle or running commute for anyone living in Phrom Phong or Asok areas and working at any of the embassies or establishments on Witthayu or Ruam Rudee. I am jealous of those lucky bastards.

Here's the route we took from my place in Ari to the path, and a little continued journey to Emporium, where we treated ourselves to gelato before taking the skytrain back.

View Monday night tour d'park ~10 miles in a larger map

Pictures:

Starting from NE corner of Lumpini-Katy walks the Lotus up the stairs. Luckily, there are these ramps there for all the stairs on this route.

Selfie over Witthayu

Conrad Hotel and Thanon Witthayu, from the footbridge

City by night, on the track on our way to Benjakitti

A lower portion of the track, with a canal to the left

Benchasiri Park, next to Emporium Phrom Phong

Katy takes in the lights

Waiting for the train!

We are so happy.

King's Birthday Ride-Sanam Luang, Thanon Ratchadamnoen, Grand Palace

Normally I wouldn't put up two similar rides in a row, but this one was kind of special. I heard in my Thai class last night that the area around the Grand Palace and Ratchadamnoen Road gets lit up this week for the King's Birthday (that'd be today, the 5th) and that yesterday would be the day to go as today it'd be packed. So I headed south west to see what all the fuss was about. There is still time to do this-I am sure at least through Friday and possibly through the weekend there will still be lights to go see, and I do recommend.

Guys, this is the Thai equivalent of going to your local American retirement village mid-December to gawk at the lights extravaganzas while cruising in slow formation with all the other gawkers.

Corner of Ratchawithi and Rama V

I don't know what that is but it looks like fairyland

Photo of a guy taking a photo of the lights

More fairyland

The best part of the ride was when I joined up with these guys just after turning onto Ratchadamnoen (how could I pass up a giant peloton just hanging out in matching outfits on the street? Notice a couple of them are really cute, also.) I was not the only person with a bike and a fabulous plan-there were dozens of other cyclists out and about checking out the scene as well.

Sampran cycling team. They actually rode all the way here from Sampran last night - and back.

Obviously, I think this whole situation is the best thing ever.

Democracy Monument

Then we got to the Grand Palace, where there was a whole festival going down in the park:

Thai dancing

Lawn with Thaksin Bridge in the background

Video, for maximum atmospheric flavor:

And finally, can't do without the Map:

View King's Birthday Ride in a larger map

Night riding from Ari to Dusit and Memorial Bridge (Saphan Put Night Market)/Thonburi

I'm back:) Can't believe how long it's been...it's been terrible not riding, but rain, heat, and sheer lack of time have kept me off the bike since May. I've discovered a new, more fun thing, though: riding the city at night. It's a lot calmer, cooler, and generally more fun to ride in Bangkok at night. I especially recommend the Dusit district (government central) as it's REALLY quiet at night.  Last night, my friend Isaac and I went west from where we live (Ari/Saphan Kwai) out towards the river, then headed south...also, as it turns out due to the twists and turns of the Chao Praya, towards the river. We ended up at Memorial Bridge, discovering a cool night market (Talad Saphan Phut) and what seems to be a very popular hangout for teenagers and teenage couples. I don't blame them; it's a great view. #romanceinthecity. Nuff said. Here are the pictures:

View east from Saphan Put

View west-that's Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) on the left

View of the market from the bridge

Another market+river view

Buddha at a temple in Thonburi on Th. Somdet Chao Praya

The temple

And then we found the Giant Swing on the way back, and went to have ice cream nearby.

And the map! Enjoy! And don't forget to ride your bike.:)

View Dusit night ride in a larger map

City to Ocean Ride (Thale Bang Khun Tien)

Back in November, I was told about a ride out to the ocean that promised to be pretty cool, and that involved (like whoa) a bike lane. On Sunday, I finally got around to it-and it was great, but sooo much more than I bargained or prepared for. It ended up being about 50km each way, and 8 hours total between riding and breaks along the way. I would love to figure out a way to do something similar but avoid Rama II road (horrible) so I will explore other seashore ride options in the future. Bangkhuntien Road is a pretty popular route for cyclists, though-I can see why; it is long, mostly quiet, and has a bike lane. If you live around here, this is a great exercise spot. If you live where I live, this is an Expedition. But worthwhile.

Chao Praya River, from the Rama II bridge

Cool seafood restaurant on Thanon Bangkhuntien. The seaside thing is big here-there are dozens of crab and seafood restaurants along this road.

Coconut by the sea, at Dolphin View Point

Kids swimming at the breakwater

Most ridiculous tanline

View City to Ocean Ride in a larger map

Welcome to the Jungle: Phra Phradaeng, Bangkok's "Green Lung"

While researching Bangkok's waterway transit, I came across some descriptions of this hidden world just across the river from southern Bangkok. I read that there were anacondas and other jungle creatures lurking beneath the raised concrete walkways that span this very undeveloped peninsula, and that it is a popular bike tour destination. SOLD.

It was actually kind of tricky to get there, as there isn't much in the way of indication on the maps as to where the piers are. There is even less information about the peninsula itself, as you'll see from my Google Maps route.

I didn't see any anacondas, but what I did see was a fascinating part of greater Bangkok that even many Bangkokians do not know about and have never visited. Much of the peninsula/island is inaccessible to four-wheeled vehicles, and as a result you end up traversing these raised concrete walkways that cross canals and marshland between palm plantations and straight up jungle. It's kind of a nature preserve but also a sleepy suburban community.

You can take your own bike (if you do, I recommend leaving from the Bang Na pier, which I've marked on the map) or rent one, if you take the skiff from the Khlong Toei pier, also marked more or less on the map. That's a location you'll probably have to ask your way to, as I did, unless you have access to a radically more detailed map than I had. Some pictures to give you an idea of what this place was like:

There are water buffaloes around that bend, I was soon to discover.

Romantic bicycle walkway shot

Rickshaw central, near the floating market and temple complex

Taking a break from ferrying people around the peninsula

King of all he can see

Leaving Phra Phradaeng on the boat to Bang Na

Map of the whole journey, with these images mapped and some extra ones:

View Across the river to Phra Phradaeng in a larger map

 Here are a few links to what other people have to say about Phra Phradaeng:

Travel and Leisure Asia (lots of pictures!) This person's experience was very similar to mine, but their photos are wayyyy better. 
Lonely Planet travel blog 
CNN Go 

Riding north to Nonthaburi; ~14 mile loop

Today, as I was leaving my apartment with my bicycle, I ended up reflecting how sometimes knowing some Thai but not enough makes me tell little white lies. I was carrying my bike down the stairs, and the condo maid, who knew some details of my itinerary last weekend, asked me if I was going to the Grand Palace again. I paused in consternation, unable to explain that I had no destination and was going to make a loop in a general northwest direction. I sat there for a second trying to think of the various things I knew how to say, and none of them really worked. So I gave up. Yes, I'm going to the Grand Palace again.

But I didn't go there. This ride took me west and north, to Nonthaburi area, which is a suburb of Bangkok. Highlights include a friendly but stimulating mini alleycat race with a Thai rider I crossed paths with, finding a commuter railway station that might be a portal to awesome later, and a nice canalside walking park. And, as always, learning more about the roads that I can take to get around town, and which to recommend and disrecommend. Recommend: Pradhipat/Thanon Thahan, Thanon Pracha Cheun. Disrecommend: Thanon Krung Thep-Nonthaburi. I got some decent photos today, so click through the pins to see what I saw:)

View North to Nonthaburi-~14 miles total loop in a larger map

Exploring Bangkok just east of the Chao Praya, and trying to understand how sois connect

Today, I rode out west and south towards the palace again, taking a slightly different route that kept me off Phahonyothin and away from the skytrain pretty much altogether. The thing about being near or directly under the skytrain on one of those main thoroughfares is that it is dark, oppressive, loud, and pollution gets trapped in the air between the road and the raised track. Oh, and the devil lives there.

I found myself on a military base while trying to work out a soi route on the last bit to keep off the main road, which was interesting. Soldiers everywhere, but no one seemed to do more than look at me askance and with curiosity.

No pictures today; I was focused on riding. So I have comments about relative rideability of the roads, instead. :)

View And then I was on a military base. in a larger map